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Bicycle Helmets >
Buying the Right helmet
You always need a helmet wherever
you ride. You can expect to crash
in your next 4,500 miles of riding, or maybe much sooner than that.
Even a low-speed fall on a bicycle
path can scramble your brains.
Laws in 15 states and over 50
localities require helmets.
Make sure your helmet fits to get
all the protection you are paying for.
A good fit means level on your head, touching all around,
comfortably snug but
not tight. The helmet should not move more than about an inch in
any direction, and must not pull off no matter how hard you try.
Standards are no longer a big issue.
Look for a CPSC sticker.
Pick a bright color for visibility
to be sure that motorists and other cyclists
can see you.
Common sense tells you to avoid a
helmet with snag points sticking out, a
squared-off shell, inadequate vents, excessive vents, an extreme
"aero" shape, dark
colors, thin straps, complicated adjustments or a rigid visor that
could snag in a fall.
More Reading
Your brain is worth reading this!
Need One? Absolutely!!
- Experienced, careful bicycle
riders crash after 4,500 miles on the average.
Nobody expects to fall, but in time you will too. When you do
you must have head protection, since head injury causes 75 per
cent of our 900 annual deaths from bicycle crashes. Road rash
and broken bones heal; scrambled brains may not. Medical
research shows that 88 per cent of cyclists' brain injuries can
be prevented by a bicycle helmet. There are other benefits. Car
drivers see you better and give you more respect. So do other
riders. And helmets may be required by law in your area.
How Does a Helmet Work?
-
A bicycle helmet
reduces the peak energy in a sharp impact. This requires a
layer of stiff foam to cushion the blow by crushing. Nearly all
bicycle helmets do this with expanded polystyrene (EPS), the
white picnic cooler foam used to protect eggs and computers.
Once crushed, the foam does not recover.
-
Spongy foam is
added inside for comfort and fit. Another foam, expanded
polypropylene (EPP), does recover, but its use is spreading
slowly. It may have some undesirable "rebound." An
stronger EPS called GECET appeared in 1992 and is widely used
now. A third foam called EPU (expanded polyurethane) is used
for helmets made in Taiwan. It has a uniform cell structre and
good crush without rebound, but is difficult to manufacture and
not used much in the U.S.
- The helmet must stay on your head
even when you hit more than once--usually a car first, and then
the road. So it needs a strong strap and an equally strong
fastener that cannot be jiggled open. The helmet should sit
level on your head and cover as much as possible. Above all,
with the strap fastened you should not be able to get the
helmet off your head by any combination of pulling or twisting.
If it comes off or slips enough to leave large areas of your
head unprotected, adjust the straps again or try another
helmet. Keep the strap comfortably snug when riding.
What Type do I Need?
- Most current helmets are
basically all EPS foam with a thin plastic outer shell. The
shell helps the helmet skid easily on rough pavement to avoid
jerking your neck. The shell also holds the EPS together after
the first impact. Some excellent helmets are made by molding
the EPS in the shell rather than adding the shell later. Beware
of marketing gimmicks. You want a smooth plastic outer shell,
not the alternating strips of plastic and foam on the outside
of Bell's stylish 1997 "Evo Pro" model. Excessive
vents mean less foam in contact with your head in a crash,
which could concentrate force on one point of your skull. (U.S.
standards don't test for that, so it's your judgment call.)
"Aero" helmets are not noticeably faster unless you
ride at competition speeds, and the "tail" could snag
in a fall. There is no real advantage to using titanium in a
helmet. Dark helmets are hard for motorists to see, and even
those silver stripes on many helmets that look refelctive
are not. Skinny straps are less comfortable. Few riders need
visors, which can snag or shatter in a fall. Mirrors are a
necessity, not a gimmick, but they need a breakaway mount. The
wire type mounted on eyeglasses can gouge your eye in a fall.
Standards
- A sticker inside the helmet tells
what standard it meets. Helmets made for U.S. sale after March
10, 1999 must meet the US Consumer Product Safety Commission
standard, so look for a CPSC sticker. ASTM’s standard is
comparable. Snell’s B-95 and N-94 standards
are tougher but seldom used. The weak ANSI Z90.4 standard is
dead. Fit is not certified by any standard, so test that on
your own head. Visors are not tested for shattering or snagging
in a fall, so you are on your own there.
Comfort Requirements
- Coolness, ventilation, fit and
sweat control are the most critical comfort needs. Air flow
over the head determines coolness, and larger front vents
provide better air flow. Most current helmets have adequate
cooling for most riders. Sweat control can require a brow pad
or separate sweatband. A snug fit with no pressure points
ensures comfort and correct position on the head when you
crash. It may take a half hour of wearing to feel pressure
points. Weight has not been an issue with today's thin shell
helmets.
Special Problems
- Pony tail ports improve fit and
cooling for those with long hair. Bald riders can avoid helmets
with big top vents to prevent tan lines. Some head shapes
require more fiddling with fitting pads and straps. Extra small
heads may need thick fitting pads. For extra large heads up to
8 1/4, look for the Bell Kinghead. For a softer landing,
seniors should pick a thicker, less dense model without huge
vents.
Prices and Where to Buy
- When you pick up a helmet, look
first for a CPSC sticker inside and a smooth shell with a
bright color outside. Put it on, adjust the
pads and straps, and then try hard to tear it off. Look for
vents and
sweat control. Helmets sell in bike shops or by mail order from
$20 up,
or in discount stores for less. A good shop helps with fitting,
and fit
is important for safety. But a discount helmet can be equally
protective if you take the time to fit it carefully. Helmets
are cheap now, so don’t wait for a sale. Many of us bought
our helmets after a crash. You can be smarter than that.
When Must I Replace a Helmet?
- Replace any helmet if you crash.
Impact crushes some of the foam,
although the damage may not be visible. Helmets work so well
that you
need to examine them for marks or dents to know if you hit.
Most
manufacturers recommend replacement after five years. We think
that
depends on usage, and most helmets given reasonable care are
good
for longer than that. But if your helmet dates back to the
70's, it's time
to replace it. Replace the buckle if it cracks or a piece
breaks off. No one
ever complains about the cost of their second bike helmet.
Warning! No Helmets on Playgrounds!
- Warning: Children must remove
helmets before climbing on playground
equipment or trees, where a helmet can snag and choke them.
-
Consumer Reports Article
- In June, 1999, Consumer Reports
top-rated the Bell EVO-2 Pro, Louis
Garneau Globe and Trek Vapor. The Globe had superior impact
protection.
The Vapor was a Best Buy at $32. You can read this highly
recommended
report at a library or download it for a fee at their Web site:
www.consumerreports.org
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Bicycle Helmet Page 1
Source: The Bicycle Helmet
Institute
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